Walking with dinosaurs

Sophie the stegosaurus

‘It is bad news to science museums when four in ten Americans believe humans lived
with dinosaurs, and fewer than two in ten understand the terms “molecule” and “DNA.” ‘
 – Larry Witham

I am lucky enough to have a good friend who works at the Natural History Museum in London, and back in mid-December he generously gave me a behind-the-scenes tour of the museum. Me being a complete geek (and proud of it), this was the equivalent of finding a Willy Wonka golden ticket to the chocolate factory. I find all science fascinating and biology particularly so (this being the discipline that I know most about), so an access-all-areas exploration of this amazing place was a real treat. We started our day by visiting the NHM’s new and famous acquisition, Sophie the stegosaurus, thought to be the most complete (80%) stegosaurus fossilised skeleton in the world.

My friend Chris works in the Life Sciences department of the museum, managing the UK Species Inventory. It’s hard to overstate how important this inventory is: essentially, if we don’t know what wildlife species we’ve got, it becomes virtually impossible to conserve them effectively. Identification and taxonomy (the science of defining and naming species) are increasingly neglected skills, so much so that the NHM is offering traineeships to encourage more people to champion these branches of science.

Cocoon, Natural History Museum

Chris is based in the Angela Mormont Centre for Biodiversity, which is tucked away within the Darwin Centre and Cocoon, impressive modern additions to the NHM’s original glorious Victorian Gothic architecture. The new building provides space for housing the museum’s massive collection of biological specimens, whilst also providing an opportunity for the public to learn about and observe the work of the scientists housed within.

Natural Hitory Museum old wooden specimen cabinetsOriginally, museum specimens were stored in wooden specimen cabinets: precision-crafted pieces of furniture which can still be seen in corridors underneath the museum. Whilst these older cabinets are beautiful pieces of work, they are not ideal for maintaining the stable and pest-free environment that most specimens require, so they have been mostly replaced with more hi-tech storage systems.

Natural History Museum metal specimen cabinets

Whilst the new grey metal cabinets lack the character of the old wooden ones, they undoubtedly protect the museum’s collection more effectively. And the collection is both massive and hugely valuable, both to science and to culture. Each bay contains several cupboards, each cupboard housing rows of drawers crammed with specimens of all sorts.

Lepidoptera specimens, Natural History Museum

The museum’s collection of specimens is vast, having been gathered over the past 400 years. There are 61.5 million animal specimens (including 34 million insects); 7 million fossils; 6 million algae, lichens and plants; and 500,000 rocks, gems and minerals. I felt somewhat awestruck by the sheer volume of material, but also the history attached to the specimens: all those collectors – amateur naturalists and botanists and geologists and fossil hunters – adding over the centuries to our sum of knowledge about the amazing diversity of our natural world. It felt like time travel, looking at some of them (like this Arrowhead Sagittaria sagittifolia collected in 1822 from Mill Meadow, Banbury).

Botanical specimen dated 1822, Natural History Museum

Generally you need a TARDIS for time travel: and like a TARDIS, the museum seems bigger on the inside. Travelling along warrens of corridors and down many stairs took us to a spot in the basement well-known to museum employees, Giraffe Corner. The clue is in the name: this is a tall storage space where giraffe specimens were once parked.

Giraffe Corner, Natural History MuseumNowadays Giraffe Corner is used mostly as a reference point for people navigating the basement, although a hatch still connects the space to the display area above… Which is right in the entrance hall of the museum (you can see the wooden trapdoor through which the giraffes would have been hoisted up and down).

Above Giraffe Corner, Natural History Museum

As the museum has been replacing its older wooden specimen cabinets with new metal ones, the vintage cabinets have become available for purchase by entomologists, naturalists or anyone who would like them. There are hundreds of them knocking about in storage rooms, gradually being sold off to any interested parties. Some of the most interesting of these superbly-crafted pieces were cases made to protect specimens during the London Blitz. Each of these cabinets is small enough to carry, with a handle on the top: the idea being that when the air raid sirens went off, someone would take the specimens with them to the shelter!

WW2 specimen cabinet, Natural History Museum

Of course while the museum is a vintage establishment, it’s also crammed to the gills with brand spanking new technology and hi-tech stuff as well. Should a dolphin or other cetacean wash up dead in the Thames, there is an autopsy room at the museum which looks like something straight out of Roswell.

Dolphin autopsy room, Natural History Museum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The museum’s collection includes ‘wet specimens’ as well as dry or inert materials, and although time didn’t allow for us to tour these collections I did get a quick peek through a doorway at someone’s work in progress. My inner boffin was suitably gratified by this scene of weird things in jars, with a faint whiff of formaldehyde to reinforce the ambience.

Wet specimen work, Natural History Museum

It was a real privilege to see some of the mighty collection and hugely important work being done at NHM. I love the natural world, and value science enormously. When I teach, I’m always trying to communicate a greater understanding of ecology, coupled with an appreciation of the beauty and diversity of nature, and our place within it… Largely because I want it all to continue to exist in all its richness.

Humanity has a dodgy track record of treating natural resources with a cavalier attitude, with the result that we’ve eliminated millions of species since we’ve been stumbling around upright on this planet. The exact figures are hard even for scientists to quantify, but it’s estimated that we’re now losing between 10,000 and 100,000 species per year. This shocking human-driven loss of biodiversity – far greater than natural extinction rates – is not sustainable and impacts on every ecosystem on the planet, which in turn impacts on human existence.

The reason for this is ecosystem services. These systems underpin all life on Earth including our own; and basically without them functioning healthily, we’re stuffed. The ecology of our planet is complex and we’re only just beginning to understand it, so removing species wholesale without considering the impact this will have on the wider system seems equivalent to yanking out random bits of your car engine and then expecting it still to work. (With the essential difference that you can’t whip planet Earth down to the nearest KwikFit and ask them to fix it for you: forget Jurassic Park, folks, extinction is forever. Once a species is gone, it’s really gone.)

Boffins peering at beetles may not seem like life-saving science – and it may have less apparent glamour than landing probes on comets or creating artificial intelligence – but if we fail to understand the biodiversity of which we’re just a part, we’re setting ourselves up for some almighty payback, sooner or later. Some take the cornucopia approach to nature, valuing it as a resource for medicines, industry and the economy. Others think its beauty, variety and general amazingness is what makes it precious. Either way, we need it: and the work of institutions like the NHM will remain key in helping us to understand and protect our natural world.

Charles Darwin statue, Natural History Museum

“The love for all living creatures is the most noble attribute of man.”
– Charles Darwin

 

Digging ponds and singing songs

2013 is here… So a very Happy New Year to you all. May this year be a good one: peace, health, prosperity, happiness, the whole shebang.

The festive season was certainly a good one for me. I got to catch up with more or less all of my family, including sundry nephews and one of my great-nieces (who is, of course, a total cutie). My mum came through a complicated spinal operation successfully and is recovering well, for which I am hugely thankful. And despite the generally discouraging weather (day after day of grey cloud and rain) I did get out into the wild winter countryside on occasion, as well.

One of many highlights was going to stay with my oldest brother in Norwich for a few days over new year. Not only is he a host par excellence (and a very good cook, to boot) but like me he enjoys rambling along by the sea. We made a trip up to Hunstanton (where the photo at the top of this blog was taken), which is right up on the north-west edge of the sticky-outy bit of Norfolk. I’d never been there before; it’s a funky old Victorian seaside town with the most amazing pink and white cliffs, kind of like coconut ice. (Anyone else remember making that when they were a kid?)

Both the white and red upper rocks are types of limestone, the reddish colour caused by staining with iron. There is also a brownish-red sandstone known as carrstone, similarly iron-stained. The limestone strata are full of fossils – a condition which my brother took full advantage of by spending a couple of busy hours working with his rock hammer to extract several really nice brachiopod fossils.

Being in a more beachcombing mood myself, I strolled for a while along Hunstanton beach, which is littered with curious rounded boulders somewhat reminiscent of stromatolites. Crouching down to eye-level with these boulders put me into what felt like a strange mythical landscape, with rounded hills rolling away to the horizon of the sea.

There’s even a genuine shipwreck on Hunstanton beach: the remains of the 1907 steam trawler Sheraton, mostly buried in the beach. This former fishing boat did duty in both World Wars, ending up rather ignominiously as a target ship for artillery practice. She drifted from her morrings in 1947 and was washed up on the coast, to be nibbled away at by salvagers until all that remains is the bottom section of her hull.

After my Christmas and New Year familial wanderings it was back to work in early January. I had been due to help a team of people build a pond before Christmas, but freezing weather and then flooding had forced us to postpone. In the first week of January however it finally stopped raining so we were able to get to work. You may ask, “How does it take whole a team of people to build one pond?” Well, this wasn’t your average garden goldfish pond. No… This was more on the scale of being a minor civil engineering project. For all those who’d like to try this at home, here’s your step-by-step guide to building a very large wildlife pond:

Step 1, get a nice shiny mechanical digger to dig out a hole the size of, oh say an Olympic swimming pool.

 

Step 2: ensure pond hole conforms to the exacting design of top ecologist and pond-builder supremo Rod d’Ayala.

Step 3: assemble a team of highly-skilled, energetic and fetchingly-attired pond construction staff (aka ‘The Hired Muscle’).

Step 4: pick out stones by hand from pond hole and cover any loose earth with puddled chalky clay (N.B. getting muddy is a vital part of this process).

Step 5: line the entire pond (sides and bottom) with two layers of tough underlay material, to protect pond liner. Note that boots must be removed first, so enabling all those involved to spend the entire day padding about in the pond hole with soggy socks.

Step 6: lift roll of waterproof rubber pond liner (weighing over 600 kg) to edge of pond using digger, then pause to make sure you’ve got it lined up exactly the right way round because if you haven’t it’s going to be rather difficult lifting it out again.

Step 7: let the liner unroll!

Step 8: use your highly-skilled team to unfold the liner and get it tucked beautifully into position. (A great team-building exercise, this.)

Step 9: cover the whole thing with another two layers of underlay material, then cover that with a six-inch layer of topsoil lifted in by digger and spread by hand with shovels. Create marshy and shallow areas within pond by heaping up soil, following Rod’s cunning and intricate pond design.

Step 10: go home to a hot bath and generally ache a lot for a few days afterwards.

Actually, Step 10 should probably be wait for pond to fill with water… So I will re-visit the site over the next couple of months and see how it’s getting on. Watch this space. The pond has been built mainly to encourage toads, so it’s hoped that it will be full enough with water for them to find it attractive as they emerge from hibernation and start to do their courtship and spawn-laying in February. Fingers crossed.

Aching muscles or not, pond building was certainly a great way to start the new year. Being out in the fresh air and helping to create a valuable habitat for declining British wildlife, plus all the Eccles cakes I could eat… Life could be a lot worse!

January continued to be inspiring, with an opportunity for me to attend the Natural Voice Practitioners’ Network annual gathering, which was held at Wortley Hall near Sheffield. As a co-leader of Newbury-based community choir Sing The World I’ve been a member of NVPN for a couple of years now, but this was my first gathering – and what an amazing weekend it was. About a hundred incredibly creative and talented singing teachers and voice workers, gathered together to share ideas and teach songs to each other, in a lovely old country house set in beautiful Yorkshire landscapes.

Wortley Hall itself is an amazing place: a former private residence, it was bought by an independent co-operative organisation known as Wortley Hall (Labour’s Home), with the intention that it would be used by the working class as an education and holiday centre. Today it is still run on co-operative principles, and hosts all kinds of gatherings and events ranging from socialist celebrations and conferences to weddings and parties. My paternal grandfather was a strong socialist, so it felt wonderfully familiar to be roaming around a building whose rooms and wings are named after the likes of Keir Hardie, Robert Owen and Sylvia Pankhurst. In the current political climate it was heartening to be somewhere which celebrated a long tradition of radicalism and social justice. A whole bunch of us even sang The Internationale on the hall staircase – in four-part harmony, of course!

Not only was the hall itself a beautiful and peaceful place, but the staff there were friendly and the the food excellent. All of us at the NVPN gathering were working hard over weekend, so it was great to have such a lovely venue. Being singers, of course we kept the bar filled with song every evening… Until 2am, on one occasion! It was impossible to go to bed when there were always so many wonderful voices joining together in harmonies, wherever you went. Music was everywhere: in the bar; over breakfast, lunch and supper; during workshops; even on a 2-hour singing walk around the surrounding countryside (much to the amusement of a Ramblers group we met along the way). I feel very fortunate to have enjoyed such a great weekend, both from a professional development viewpoint but also because I made so many friends.

So all in all, it’s been rather a good start to 2013. Hopefully this is a good omen of things to come… I certainly plan to be getting out and about a lot this year, working and visiting friends and discovering all kinds of new and wonderful places. I’ll leave you with the wish that your own year ahead may be filled with good things too. Have fun, stay healthy, play in the snow and sing whenever possible. Or dance, if that’s your thing. Or do both! Looking forward to the adventures the coming year will bring…

 

 

Of martyrs and hermit crabs…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summer term progresses and most of my weekdays are now spent in field teaching, but the May Bank Holiday weekend gave me an opportunity to get away for a break with a friend, down on the Dorset coast. A singing workshop was being led by Gilo and Sarah, two lovely people that I met at the Unicorn Voice Camp last August. They are both fabulous singers and members of the Natural Voice Practitioners’ Network, to which I also belong. My friend and I expected a wonderful workshop, and we weren’t disappointed: Sarah and Gilo led around fifty people in a full day of harmony singing that was simply out of this world. The space we were singing in, the chapel at the Othona community near Burton Bradstock, was acoustically superb as well as being a beautiful setting in its own right. All in all, a great day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My friend Tessa and I had an interesting journey to Othona. We paused en route to eat our picnic lunch at Tolpuddle, the village associated with the famous Tolpuddle Martyrs: six farm labourers (George and James Loveless, James Brine, James Hammett, John and Thomas Standfield) who tried to organise themselves into an early trade union to alleviate the poverty in which they lived. In 1834, the six men were framed by local squire James Frampton and sentenced to seven years’ transportation to Australia. Such was the outcry from the public, trade unions and a few MPs that two years later the men were all pardoned. They returned to Britain but found continuing ill treatment at the hands of wealthy landowners: five of the original six eventually emigrated to Canada where they lived out their lives in peace.

Astonishingly, the Sycamore tree under which the men held some of their union meetings is still growing in Tolpuddle (and is pictured above). I stood under it for a while and thought of those men daring to work together to change their world for the better, despite the fear of retribution from the rich and powerful. A significant message in these difficult times. No doubt certain people in government today wish fondly that transportation was still an option.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before we arrived at Othona, we also went for a walk along nearby Chesil Beach. It was a grey evening with an almost completely calm sea, and the only people to be seen on the beach were fishermen. This mighty shingle bank had an almost surreal quality in the fading light: I could have sat meditatively on it for hours, gazing out to sea. At this western end the shingle is pea-sized, increasing to cobblestone size as you go east. According to local legend, smugglers landing on the shingle at night could tell exactly where they were on the coast by the size of the pebbles. I paddled briefly and narrowly escaped frostbite: early May is not propitious for sea-bathing in Britain. Tessa was far more sensible and kept her wellies firmly on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In places along the shingle, some plants have managed to grab a foothold: I saw plenty of Sea kale Crambe maritima, with its fleshy crinkled leaves looking a lot more impressive than the stuff I’ve grown on the allotment. I tried munching a few leaves and they were surprisingly tasty, in a cabbagey sort of way. I couldn’t help thinking that they would be rather nice stir-fried with some ginger and spring onions and a few seared scallops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another coastal specialist growing at Chesil Beach is Sea campion Silene uniflora (pictured at the start of this blog entry), with white blossoms nodding above pinkish-green calyxes and slender stems and leaves. Amongst the flowers, black lumps of ancient peat lay scattered over the shingle, washed up onto the beach from sediments formed in a lagoon that lay further offshore when sea levels were lower over 4,000 years ago. Near one I found a wave-worn plastic soldier of unknown regiment, frozen in mid-stride: I left him storming the beaches on a block of peat not far from some World War Two tank traps, as he seemed quite at home there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we finally arrived at the Othona community to stay for the weekend, we were made instantly welcome and plied with delicious food, including ice cream for pudding with homemade butterscotch sauce. Othona has a core group of members living there as part of a spiritual community and runs a programme of events and ‘Open Space’ weekends that are open to all-comers. Along with its sister site in Essex, Othona in Dorset has a Christian basis but is open to people of all faiths or none, believing that what people share is more important than what divides them. As someone currently following a pagan tradition / the Tao Te Ching / meditation as a spiritual path, I found this open-hearted and inclusive attitude to spirituality refreshing and healing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would recommend staying at Othona to anyone. Not only was it peaceful and welcoming, but they have the most amazing tree-house in their garden and the sea is only ten minutes’ walk away. Before Othona took on the site in the 1960s it was the home of a small community of women dedicated to a life of self-sufficiency, vegetarianism and prayer. Known locally as the White Ladies (after the undyed cotton or silk habits they wore), each woman lived in her own wooden house and cultivated the land around it: sort of ‘Eco Nuns’, as someone described them. Sounds like a pretty good life to me. And I feel sure that they would have built a treehouse too, if only they’d thought of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While walking along the beach below Othona we found a Common hermit crab Pagurus bernhardus firmly ensconced in the recycled empty shell of a Common whelk Buccinum undatum. Hermit crabs scavenge on anything from dead fish to bits of seaweed, so are quite happy foraging around the tideline on beaches. Apparently if one hermit crab fancies another’s shell they may try to forcibly evict it. Even marine life has its perils, it would seem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were lucky enough to get quite a bit of sunshine over the weekend, very welcome after so many grey rainy days. On the Sunday we joined another friend (John) for a fossil hunting walk from Charmouth to Lyme Regis, managing to pick up quite a few nice ammonites and other fossils on the way. The best place to find these is not in the disintegrating (and hazardous) cliff faces, but amongst rocks and shingle on the beach. This doesn’t however discourage lots of people from whacking enthusiastically at anything rock-shaped with fossil hammers, so our walk was musically punctuated by the chink of steel on stone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went on many childhood holidays to Lyme Regis and have lots of good memories of this part of the coast, so it was especially nice for me to share a day there with two friends. We ate lunch (massive fresh local crab baguettes) on the beach, and soaked up the sunshine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our day out coincided with the Lyme Regis Fossil Festival, an annual event that celebrates all things geological and palaeontological. We enjoyed some of the street theatre on offer, including the roving Big Noise Band and the eccentric Battle For The Winds performance (which was frankly as mad as a sack full of weasels – British eccentricity at its finest). I also spotted a rather enigmatic young lady dressed in period costume (pictured below), taking the air on the promenade. I thought perhaps she was meant to be a young Mary Anning, the nineteenth century fossil collector who is one my earliest heroines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also part of the festival was stone balancer Adrian Gray. Some time ago my parents gave me a photograph of one of his delicately-balanced pieces, but I hadn’t appreciated just how astonishing his work was until I watched him in action. He stands one massive sea-smoothed stone atop another, in positions that seem to defy gravity. Lest people grow suspicious of trickery, he periodically takes these balances apart and perches a new stone in place of the first one. I could’ve watched him all day. I think stone balancing could be the new Jenga.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After fortifying ourselves with some ice cream we headed back to Charmouth over the clifftops, following a route that would have given us spectacular views had it not been diverted away from the cliff edge due to coastal erosion in 2009. My understanding is that the path could simply be moved slightly inland when erosion occurs, remaining close to the cliff edge… But that would require the cooperation of local landowners, including a golf course. In the meantime walkers enjoy fine views of local roads and roundabouts, although a small section of the path does still cut through part of the golf course, where I saw my first Early Purple Orchids Orchis mascula of the year, growing alongside Cowslips Primula veris, Bluebells Hyacinthoides non-scripta and Common Dog Violets Viola riviniana.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Dorset coast is a stunning and fascinating place, rich in geology, wildlife and poetry. One day I’d like to live closer to it, and walk there often. John Masefield puts it better than I can, in his ballad Sea Fever:

I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

Till the next time, Jurassic Coast.

Cogden beach, looking west to Charmouth